At the heart of every Indian kitchen is the daily bread.
In most Gujarati homes (and mine) that daily bread is the chapati: a deliciously soft, charred, whole-wheat flatbread. Making them is incredibly meditative and so addictive: the feel of the flour, the binding of the dough, the smell that fills the house as they bake on the stove. Wherever I am when I make them, I feel at home. (I have included my chapati recipe from Made in India in the “How To” section here.)
If I’m not making chapatis, I’m usually making another Gujarati classic, thepla (see here). I’ll never forget the time my Aunty Palvani left a flight attendant red-faced when she slapped down some thepla and achar (pickle) over the top of my in-flight meal. “Much better for you than plane food,” she said, before offering the flight attendant some too. Otherwise known as “journey bread” (because it travels well), thepla is made from chickpea flour and sesame seeds, and is tasty enough to be eaten all on its own.
Punjab is the breadbasket of India. Its rich soil and a healthy supply of river water result in an abundance of corn and wheat. One of the most popular breads is makki ki roti: cornmeal bread (see here), often served with freshly churned butter and mustard greens. Punjabis are champion tandoor cooks and are well known for their whopping great elephant ear naans (here), slathered in garlic butter. To mimic their tandoori naan, I turn the heat to the highest temperature in my oven, which works a treat.
To the south, in Kerala, you’ll find the undisputed king of parathas, the elegant Malabar (here). This beautiful coiled, flaky, and buttery bread is nothing but pure joy to tear apart layer by layer and dip into a thick (usually coconutty) sauce.
But I cannot write about South India and bread without mentioning the dosa. The sour tang of the fermented lentil and rice is inexplicably addictive, as are the fudgy coconut potatoes that often fill them. To share my love of dosa, I’ve created a quick, weekday version (here), and a more rigorous recipe for the real deal that is probably best left to a weekend (here).
Whichever bread you go for, don’t worry if things are a little wonky. After all, as my mum always says, “Taro hath besejase”—roughly translated, practice makes perfect.
SQUASHED TOMATO UTTAPAM
This dish is dedicated to making your snack times brilliant: uttapam is a cross between a pancake and a crumpet, to which you can add any vegetables. I am partial to squashed tomatoes, sweet caramelized onions, and the odd chile, and I am also not averse to Cheddar grated over the top (when no other Indians are looking).
Makes 8 (enough for 4 to snack on)
FOR THE UTTAPAMS
1 cup rice flour
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/3 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt
1 cup warm water
2 eggs
FOR THE TOPPING
canola oil
2 red onions, sliced
2 Indian green chiles, slit lengthways
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ pound ripe baby tomatoes, sliced thinly
Put both flours, the baking soda, salt, and yogurt into a bowl. Mix thoroughly, then make a well and add the water and eggs. Whisk to a smooth batter and leave to one side.
To make the topping, put 3 tablespoons of oil into a frying pan and, when hot, add the red onions. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, until the onions have caramelized, then add the green chiles, salt, and black pepper, and stir. Add the sliced tomatoes, stir again, then take off the heat.
To cook the uttapam, put 1 teaspoon of oil into a non-stick frying pan over medium heat. When hot, pour a small ladleful of batter (around ¼ cup) into the pan, smooth it out into a round with the back of your ladle, and allow to set for 1 minute. Then take a tablespoonful of the tomato mixture and place it on top. Flip the uttapam and cook for another minute, or until cooked through, then shuffle onto a plate.
It’s always a good idea to test a little of the first one to check the cooking times and flavor, adjusting either if need be, before cooking the rest of the uttapams.
These are delicious with a vegetable sambhar (see here) and coconut chutney (here).
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