When the first valor beans of the season arrive in Gujarat, women sit cross-legged around a pyramid of them and twist, peel, and pod, chatting and giggling as they do so. Valor beans don’t grow in the UK or US but green beans do, and when their season arrives, my aunts and mum prepare them in the same way, around the kitchen table.
This is a simple summer subji, an everyday vegetable dish that is lovely with bread and yogurt, and tastier if prepared by your aunts. It also goes well with eggplant, like the eggplant and pea curry here, and rice.
Serves 4 as part of a main course
1½ pounds green beans
2 tablespoons canola oil
optional: 15 fresh curry leaves
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 Indian green chile, thinly sliced
1½-inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated
6 banana shallots or other large shallots, finely sliced
½ pound baby plum tomatoes (or just good, ripe tomatoes), chopped
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¾ teaspoon salt (or to taste)
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
Wash your beans and trim them. Cut them on a diagonal into 1¾-inch pieces.
Put the oil into a large lidded frying pan and, when hot, add the curry leaves (if using) and mustard seeds. When they start to crackle, add the garlic, green chile, and ginger. Stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the shallots and cook for around 12 to 15 minutes, until golden and caramelized.
Next, add the tomatoes and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the turmeric, salt, and black pepper, and stir to mix. Throw in the beans and a few tablespoons of water, stir, and pop the lid on.
Cook the beans for 6 to 8 minutes, until they’re soft and have just lost their crunch, then serve fresh and hot.
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