SOUR MANGO + JAGGERY CHUTNEY
This chutney is a Gujarati favorite, made when the first mangoes of the season arrive. I asked my 83-year-old grandmother to show me how to make it. “I don’t remember how to,” she said, but amazingly, her hands rhythmically chopped the mango and stirred in the spices—she did it automatically and didn’t have to stop to think once. It made her nostalgic. She said her mum and she used to pickle together, and said I must pickle with my daughters and that I must hurry up and have daughters, then broke into a sly wink. Makes a large jar (around 24 ounces) 2 pounds unripe green mangoes 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 4 tablespoons canola oil 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds ¾ teaspoon ground red chile generous ¾ cup jaggery (or to taste) Wash the mangoes but don’t worry about peeling them. Cut off the fatter “cheeks,” slicing as close to the central pit as possible, followed by the chunks of flesh on the other sides of the pit. Then salvage whatever other flesh you can. Chop it all into ¼-inc…
